Urdu fiction from India

From the September 2010 issue of Words Without Borders:

Curated by distinguished translator Muhammad Umar Memon, this stunning collection is the perfect primer on the fantastic and varied forms of contemporary Urdu writing. Naiyer Masud, master of the Urdu short story and Saraswati Samman award winner, follows the travails of a young runaway given refuge by a mysterious stranger. Celebrated fiction writer Qurratulain Hyder tracks the fortunes of a young woman who jettisons family and home on an intercontinental romp, with the past hot on her heels. Trailblazing feminist writer Ismat Chughtai gives an unsparing account of the goings-on in a maternity ward, while Anwar Khan’s protagonist discovers the comforting solitude of a shop window. Award-winning journalist Sajid Rashid sorts through a train explosion in a tale told by a severed head, and Siddiq Aalam listens in on two grumpy old men in a Kolkata park. Rounding out the issue, Sahitya Akademi Award winner Rajinder Singh Bedi gives a lesson in the art of erotic statuary, while Zakia Mashhadi recounts a troubled saga of marriage, love, and religion, and Salam Bin Razzack paints a picture of a Mumbai under siege. More:

The Pose by Anwar Khan
Methun by Rajinder Singh Bedi
The Saga of Jaanki Raman Pandey by Zakia Mashhadi
Beyond the Fig by Qurratulain Hyder
Of Fists and Rubs by Ismat Chugtai
Destitutes Compound by Naiyer Masud
Two Old Kippers by Siddiq Alam


India, the rent-a-womb capital of the world

Amana Fontanella-Khan in Slate on India’s half-billion-dollar-a-year reproductive-tourism industry:

You can outsource just about any work to India these days, including making babies. Reproductive tourism in India is now a half-a-billion-dollar-a-year industry, with surrogacy services offered in 350 clinics across the country since it was legalized in 2002. The primary appeal of India is that it is cheap, hardly regulated, and relatively safe. Surrogacy can cost up to $100,000 in the United States, while many Indian clinics charge $22,000 or less. Very few questions are asked. Same-sex couples, single parents and even busy women who just don’t have time to give birth are welcomed by doctors. As a bonus, many Indians speak English and Indian surrogate mothers are less likely to use illegal drugs. Plus medical standards in private hospitals are very high (not all good Indian doctors left in the brain drain).

Some describe this as a win-win situation. The doctors get clients, the childless get children and the surrogates get much-needed money. But some media horror stories have challenged this happy vision. In 2007 the Japanese couple Ikufumi and Yuki Yamada came to visit India’s “Surrogacy Queen,” Dr. Nayna Patel, founder of the Akanksha Infertility Clinic. A donor egg and surrogate mother was found and the embryo was implanted in the surrogate’s womb. Before the child was born, however, the Yamadas divorced and Mrs. Yamada no longer wanted the child, which was not biologically hers. Mr. Yamada wanted the baby but could not adopt it due to an Indian colonial-era law that forbids single men from adopting girls. The absence of regulation meant that Baby Manji became India’s first “surrogate orphan” until the father was finally able to adopt her several months, after the Supreme Court intervened. Other cases like the Japanese one have followed, involving Israeli, French, and German citizens.

The most shocking stories, however, concern the surrogate mothers. The surrogates, many of whom are cooped up in “surrogacy homes” away from their families for the duration of the pregnancy, are often in dire financial straits. One woman told a journalist that with a $4,000 debt and an alcoholic husband, she had first considered selling a kidney to get herself out of debt, but decided that the $ 7,000 surrogacy fee was the better option. In another disturbing case, an upper-class Indian woman hired a surrogate to carry her child and invited her to live in her home during the pregnancy. The client accused the surrogate mother of stealing and not only kicked her out of the house but coolly informed her that she didn’t want her services anymore and that she should terminate the pregnancy. Surrogates get paid only on delivery of the baby, so this kind of situation is economically devastating for a surrogate. It can also severely compromise the ethical and religious beliefs of surrogates who may not wish to undergo an abortion. More:

The fibbers off the field

Trevor Chesterfield, a cricket journalist for over 50 years, in The Indian Express:

From the time they were exposed as cheats four years ago over the ball-tampering issue at The Oval, there has been a growing stench about modern Pakistan cricket — which has developed the habit of eschewing openness and with it, integrity.

That was a moment when Darrell Hair, and the strict and fair umpiring levels employed, were questioned by those who knew they had been fiddling with the ball; then they lied about it to escape being shown up as villains in a dishonest caper, all against the tenets of fair play.

With such a background, it should surprise no one that such Luddites as these have again openly displayed how their management is as dysfunctional, maladjusted and incompetent as it has been since the early 1990s. Ijaz Butt, the current president of the Pakistan Cricket Board is as fundamentally flawed in his administration as he was over the disastrous terrorist attack on the Sri Lanka cricket team’s bus in Lahore in March 2009.

From the time they were exposed as cheats four years ago over the ball-tampering issue at The Oval, there has been a growing stench about modern Pakistan cricket — which has developed the habit of eschewing openness and with it, integrity. More:

Pakistan: sadly, there’s only one Imran Khan

Tariq Ali in The Guardian:

Poor Pakistan. Floods of biblical proportions; millions homeless; a president who pretends to be shocked by cricket’s latest betting scandal when his own persona is the embodiment of corruption. A prime minister shedding crocodile tears because of the cricketing “shame” rather than tending to allegations that flood-relief money has gone missing. And now a sleep-walking cricket captain attempting to deny the ugly truth, but without real conviction, hoping against hope that he will ride out the crisis like others before him and that his bosses in Pakistan’s cricket establishment will cast a veil over this one as well.

Even if guilty, Salman Butt and his vice-captain Kamran Akmal will try to give the appearance of having no idea of the seriousness of the allegations and will try to talk their way back, hoping, as in the past, that after a few gentle raps on the knuckles they can revert to business as usual. That would be a real tragedy, a green light to semi-legalise match fixing, and not just in Pakistan.

The Pakistan Cricket Board is a long-standing joke, its chairmen replaced with every change of government. The current boss, Ijaz Butt, is the brother-in-law of Pakistan’s defence minister, a crony of President Zardari. The International Cricket Council and the England and Wales Cricket Board – somewhat pathetic bodies dominated by political and financial interests respectively – should not fudge this one. Whether Pakistan batting collapses were psychological or based on material interests we still do not know. But the moral collapse of this team stares all cricket-lovers in the face. Any perpetrators should be on the next plane home and the ringleaders given life bans. If guilty, the teenage bowling sensation Mohammad Amir should be banned for some years. His idol, Wasim Akram, is not the best role model on this front. More:

A Sikh temple where all may eat, and pitch in

Lydia Polgreeen in The New York Times:

Amritsar: The groaning, clattering machines never stop, transforming 12 tons of whole wheat flour every day into nearly a quarter-million discs of flatbread called roti. These purpose-built contraptions, each 20 feet long, extrude the dough, roll it flat, then send it down a gas-fired conveyor belt, spitting out a never-ending stream of hot, floppy, perfectly round bread.

Soupy lentils, three and a third tons of them, bubble away in vast cauldrons, stirred by bearded, barefoot men wielding wooden spoons the size of canoe paddles. The pungent, savory bite wafting through the air comes from 1,700 pounds of onions and 132 pounds of garlic, sprinkled with 330 pounds of fiery red chilies.

It is lunchtime at what may be the world’s largest free eatery, the langar, or community kitchen at this city’s glimmering Golden Temple, the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion. Everything is ready for the big rush. Thousands of volunteers have scrubbed the floors, chopped onions, shelled peas and peeled garlic. At least 40,000 metal plates, bowls and spoons have been washed, stacked and are ready to go.

Anyone can eat for free here, and many, many people do. On a weekday, about 80,000 come. On weekends, almost twice as many people visit. Each visitor gets a wholesome vegetarian meal, served by volunteers who embody India’s religious and ethnic mosaic. More:

Kashmir: finding the face of the protester

Suhasini Haider in The Hindu:

Getting at the truth in Kashmir is like interpreting the Dance of the Seven Veils. But there are moments that will startle you with their clarity. Like listening to 31-year-old Rafiqa, a housewife, at a protest in Srinagar’s Rambagh. Amidst chants of ‘Azaadi’, she would say to my surprise, “Yeh masla goli se nahin, boli se hal hoga.” Dialogue, not the bullet, is the way forward.

Like veils, Azaadi takes on several layers of meaning in Kashmir. You can never really tell how many. It’s something I first learned more than 15 years ago — going to buy walnut macaroons at the Jan bakery in Srinagar. It was closed and as I asked around, each explanation left me more confused. The first passer-by told me that curfew was on, the second attributed the closure to a hartal called by the Hurriyat, another added the bakery employees were picked up by security forces after firing in the area, and yet another told me that a militant group had issued threats. Eventually, it turned out that the owners were bereaved. I did not get my macaroons, but I took home the simple lesson — the truth has many versions in a conflict zone.

It should, therefore, come as no surprise to Chief Minister Omar Abdullah that even after his government’s attempt to throw the book at the man who threw a shoe at him, many now believe it was all a PR exercise concocted by his spin doctors. After all, his own officers had three versions of the truth — that Abdul Ahad Jan was mentally unstable, that he was a disgruntled officer with a poor service record, and that he had disrupted the Independence Day proceedings and aimed his shoe at the behest of Mr. Abdullah’s political rivals. Despite the overkill on theories and the very serious charge of sedition against Jan, when Mr. Abdullah decided to meet him and “forgive him,” the buzz on Srinagar’s curfew-silenced streets was that Jan was part of a government plot to make the Chief Minister look good. And then Jan resigned and pledged allegiance to the separatists. More:

Profile: Nita Ambani

Srikanth Srinivas in Business World:

It is not easy scheduling an interview with Nita Ambani. She is going through a particularly busy phase at the moment. She is supervising the building of a new wing at Mumbai’s Hurkisondas Nurrotumdas Hospital, run by a trust controlled by the Dhirubhai Ambani Foundation, and it requires lots of concentrated attention. She has to also make sure that the Mumbai Indians are in perfect shape for the Champions League. There is a list of sportsmen to be reviewed to determine who will go to the US on a sports scholarship from IMG Reliance, a joint venture between Reliance Industries (RIL) and IMG World.

Then there is the Dhirubhai Ambani International School (DAIS) — it runs smoothly, but Nita cannot stay away from the project closest to her heart and needs to go there regularly. Also, there are the affairs of the Dhirubhai Ambani Foundation, which she chairs, to go through. And, of course, the numerous family and other commitments that are part and parcel of being wife of Mukesh Ambani and the first lady of the RIL empire.

It takes us three weeks and numerous calls to fix the meeting. But once she confirms it, there are no hitches. We are ushered into the beautiful waiting room of her office on the 12th floor of Maker Chamber 4 in Mumbai’s Nariman Point. Unlike the reception areas of other corporate bosses, this one is remarkably bare — no magazines, newspapers or phones: no clutter at all.

Nita is just winding up another meeting, but we do not have to wait long. She meets us within 10 minutes of the appointed time. “Everything at Reliance is always a bit of a whirlwind. So many things are happening all the time that you have to constantly shift focus,” she laughs by way of explaining the time it took to catch up with her. But once we are with her, there are no interruptions. Nita gives her full attention to anything she is doing during the time she has allotted for it. Like the waiting room, the office is also remarkably free of clutter. The files, books, newspapers and magazines are elsewhere. At her office, she only meets people, and focuses just on them. More:

The Afghanistan war is mainly about Pakistan and India

Fred Kaplan in Slate:

Back when he was commander of U.S. forces in Iraq, Gen. David Petraeus once asked, “How does this thing end?” He must be asking the same question, with a considerably deeper furrow in his brow, now that he’s the commander in Afghanistan.

And Iraq was the proverbial cakewalk compared with Afghanistan. The difference isn’t merely that Iraqi insurgents could be co-opted because of the threat from foreign jihadists (whereas the Afghan Taliban are homegrown), or that Iraq’s sectarian divisions are basically among Sunni, Shiite, and Kurd (whereas Afghanistan’s schisms are multiple and tribal), or that Iraq is a fairly modern, literate nation (whereas much of Afghanistan is nearly medieval).

The main difference—and the difference that’s at the core of the Pakistan problem—is that the Iraq war was mainly about Iraq, whereas the Afghanistan war is mainly about Pakistan, and Pakistan’s worries are mainly about India.

Pakistani leaders, as is well known, have been reluctant to devote much effort to combating Taliban fighters on the western border with Afghanistan because, in their eyes, the main threat and mortal enemy is the country across their eastern border—India. More:

Cricket in the dock

The News of the World has smashed a multi-million pound cricket match-fixing ring which rigged the current Lord’s Test between England and Pakistan:

In the most sensational sporting scandal ever, bowlers Mohammad Amir and Mohammad Asif delivered THREE blatant no-balls to order.

Their London-based fixer Mazhar Majeed, who let us in on the betting scam for £150,000, crowed “this is no coincidence” before the bent duo made duff deliveries at PRECISELY the moments promised to our reporter.

Armed with our damning dossier of video evidence, Scotland Yard launched their own probe into the scandal.

Last night three players – captain Salman Butt, and bowlers Amir and Asif hade their mobile phones seized by officers.

Millions around the world watched Pakistan star bowlers Mohammad Amir and Mohammad Asif deliver three no-balls in the Test against England on Thursday and Friday at the historic home of cricket, Lord’s in London.

Unsuspecting fans packed the ground yesterday to watch Pakistan collapse as they were bowled out for 74 in their first innings and forced to follow on. More:

The anarchic republic of Pakistan

Ahmed Rashid in The National Interest:

There is perhaps no other political-military elite in the world whose aspirations for great-power regional status, whose desire to overextend and outmatch itself with meager resources, so outstrips reality as that of Pakistan. If it did not have such dire consequences for 170 million Pakistanis and nearly 2 billion people living in South Asia, this magical thinking would be amusing.

This is a country that sadly appears on every failing-state list and still wants to increase its arsenal from around 60 atomic weapons to well over 100 by buying two new nuclear reactors from China. This is a country isolated and friendless in its own region, facing unprecedented homegrown terrorism from extremists its army once trained, yet it pursues a “forward policy” in Afghanistan to ensure a pro-Pakistan government in Kabul as soon as the Americans leave.

For a state whose economy is on the skids and dependent on the IMF for massive bailouts, whose elite refuse to pay taxes, whose army drains an estimated 20 percent of the country’s annual budget, Pakistan continues to insist that peace with India is impossible for decades to come. For a country that was founded as a modern democracy for Muslims and non-Muslims alike and claims to be the bastion of moderate Islam, it has the worst discriminatory laws against minorities in the Muslim world and is being ripped apart through sectarian and extremist violence by radical groups who want to establish a new Islamic emirate in South Asia.

Pakistan’s military-intelligence establishment, or “deep state” as it is called, has lost over 2,300 soldiers battling these terrorists—the majority in the last 15 months after much U.S. cajoling to go after at least the Pakistani (if not the Afghan) Taliban. Despite these losses and considerable low morale in the armed forces, it still follows a pick-and-choose policy toward extremists, refusing to fight those who will confront India on its behalf as well as those Taliban who kill Western and Afghan soldiers in the war next-door. More:

Rani Taj the dhol player

The dhol has traditionally been played by men at Punjabi weddings and Sufi shrines. Rani Taj, the first professional British-Kashmiri female dholi, trained by the Dhol Blasters and Azaad Dhol, plays the dhol at public events.

Churchill’s famine

In Outlook, Sheela Reddy reviews Churchill’s Secret War: The British Empire and the Ravaging of India during World War Two by Madhusree Mukerjee (Tranquebar):

Madhusree Mukerjee, physicist and former editor of Scientific American, “currently a housewife” living in Germany with her husband and son, has a curious way of writing books: she catches hold of any subject that she wants to learn about, no matter how difficult or complex, and doesn’t let go until she’s ferreted out whatever it takes to answer her questions as a rank outsider. She puts it down to her training in scientific method—Mukerjee lived in Calcutta until she moved to the US to study physics, receiving her doctorate from the University of Chicago in 1989. “As a physicist, you are trained to simplify problems so that they become more comprehensible,” she says in a telephone interview from near Frankfurt in Germany.

The first time she strayed away from science journalism was when she decided to learn about the aboriginals in the Andamans islands. “I felt at some point that I understood pretty well the basics of science, but there was a lot about the human environment that I didn’t understand.” For a start, she decided to explore the stories she had heard while growing up in Calcutta of how freedom fighters dumped on the Andamans islands escaped head-hunting savages. “I wanted to understand the reality of that.” It led Mukerjee to the Andamans and her first book, The Land of Naked People: Encounters with Stone Age Islanders, relating the devastating experiences of the hunter-gatherers as they come face to face with modern civilisation.

After finishing that book, the next question—and book—was already approaching. “My basic question was: I now understood how the world treats aboriginal people but I don’t really understand the origins of poverty.” But poverty being such a complex subject, the scientist in Mukerjee determined to break it down to “its least possible dimension—food”. “I felt that if I can understand famine, I will understand poverty.” To make it even simpler for herself, Mukerjee decided to study the Bengal famine of 1943. More:

Masters of the Universe

The mythical mathematician is a troubled but brilliant mind focused on truths that lie beyond the horizon. This may not be the entire truth, but it’s time to ask what is — as India hosts its first ever Fields Medal ceremony, and that too, without any fanfare. Hartosh Singh Bal in Open:

Cedric Villani

A young man of striking looks, his long brown hair framing his face, his suit offset by an oversized wine-red cravat and a trademark spider brooch the size of a palm, is being followed around a vast hall by a film crew. He is one of the four men about to be honoured by an award that is among the rarest accomplishments in any field of intellectual endeavour—the Fields Medal.

The award’s monetary prize is insignificant—about $15,000—but the prestige it offers is incalculable. The actual medal, made of 14 carat gold, is 9 cm in diameter and bears the head of Archimedes in profile with an inscription in Latin from a passage by Manilius, a first-century Roman poet: Transire suum pectus mundoque potiri (‘To pass beyond your understanding and make yourself master of the universe’). The inscription on the obverse side translates to: ‘The mathematicians assembled here from all over the world pay tribute to outstanding work.’

Given once every four years for outstanding mathematical work completed before the age of 40, in the 70 or so years since the Fields Medal has been instituted, just 52 have been awarded—four of them this year at the International Congress of Mathematicians (ICM) underway in Hyderabad, the first time in over a century of its existence that the conference is being held in India.

Three thousand assembled mathematicians rise in tribute as President Pratibha Patil awards the medal to the chosen four: Elon Lindenstrauss from Israel, Stanislav Smirnov from Russia, Ngo Bao Chau from Vietnam (originally, though now a naturalised citizen of France), and Cedric Villani from France (the man in the cravat). More:

A Foreigner Carrying in the Crook of His Arm a Tiny Bomb

A discussion with Amitava Kumar on The Leonard Lopate Show: (via 3quarksdaily):

Amitava Kumar looks at the global repercussions of the war on terror. His book A Foreigner Carrying in the Crook of His Arm a Tiny Bomb tells the story of two men convicted in U.S. courts on terrorism-related charges: Hemant Lakhani, a 70-year-old tried for attempting to sell a fake missile to an FBI informant, and Shahawar Matin Siraj, who was accused of being involved in a conspiracy to bomb a subway. Kumar explores the experiences of ordinary people caught up in the war on terror and the growing suspicions about foreigners in post-9/11 America.

Saudi couple “hammer 24 nails” into Sri Lankan maid

An x-ray shows nails in a hand.

Reuters from Colombo:

A Saudi couple tortured their Sri Lankan maid after she complained of a too heavy workload by hammering 24 nails into her hands, legs and forehead, officials said on Thursday.

Nearly 2 million Sri Lankans sought employment overseas last year and around 1.4 million, mostly maids, were employed in the Middle East. Many have complained of physical abuse or harassment.

L.T. Ariyawathi, a 49-year old mother of three, returned on Friday after five months in Saudi Arabia. More:

Mystery at the top of the world

Did George Mallory make it to the summit of Everest before he died? Graham Hoyland argues that he couldn’t have – due to a deadly combination of bad weather and worse luck. From The Independent:

His body lay half-buried in the frozen scree, face-down and spread-eagled in his last agony. Above George Mallory, a couple of thousand feet higher, the summit of Everest stood impassively waiting for other men to try to conquer the highest mountain in the world. For me, also, it was the end of a long quest.

At the age of 12, I met my relative Howard Somervell, a friend of George Mallory’s who watched him leave on his last attempt to climb the mountain in June 1924. Somervell told me about his own attempt to climb the mountain without oxygen, and how he nearly suffocated due to a frostbitten larynx. He turned back 1,000 feet from the top.

“We met Mallory at the North Col on his way up. He said to me that he had forgotten his camera, and I lent him mine. ‘So if my camera was ever found,’” he said, ‘you could prove that Mallory got to the top.’” It was a throwaway remark, which he probably made a hundred times in the course of telling this story, but this time it found its mark.

I spent years trying to prove Mallory had climbed the mountain and became the 15th Briton to climb the mountain, in 1993. In 1999, I organised a BBC-funded expedition to look for Somervell’s camera. Instead the searchers found Mallory’s body. There was no camera, though, and still no answer to the biggest mystery in mountaineering: who climbed Mount Everest first? More:

New York’s ‘Desi Food truck’

Siddhartha Vaidyanathan in the Wall Street Journal:

While New York City offers a considerable variety of Indian restaurants, the mobile food truck is mostly associated with falafel, shawarma, tacos, and ice-creams. Apart from the dosa cart at the New York University campus in downtown Manhattan, few desi mobile food vendors have captured the imagination.

Alamgeer Elahi hopes to reverse the trend. Walk down Fifth Avenue and, at the intersection of 27th Street, it’s hard to miss a yellow van plastered with posters of Bollywood stars. Peek closer and you see the metallic surface adorned with Pakistani tribal art, a roof decorated with embroidered curtains and an unmistakable whiff of fresh lachha parathas.

Anand Kumar, 31, who works in a technology firm in Jersey City, had just bought himself a Kolkata Biryani on a Tuesday afternoon.

“I’ve had the kati roll here before and it’s phenomenal,” says Mr. Kumar, who is a second-generation Indian living in Manhattan. More:

Hamish McDonald set to roll out his Ambani sequel

Varun Sood and Satish John in Mint:

It was the most controversial book about an Indian business family not to be read in the 1990s. And the author, Hamish McDonald, is hoping that he has better luck with the sequel, Mahabharata in Polyester: The making of the world’s richest brothers and their feud.

New Delhi-based publisher Roli Books Pvt. Ltd is to publish the book, a fact confirmed by the firm’s director Priya Kapoor.

McDonald, a former Far Eastern Economic Review journalist who was based in India, started work on what was to become The Polyester Prince, a book on the late Dhirubhai Ambani, with the sanction of the Ambani family.

The author and the family, however, differed on the approach and the book became an “unauthorized” biography of sorts. It was published internationally by Allen and Unwin Pty. Ltd (Australia) in September 1999, and HarperCollins secured the India rights for it.

The Ambanis didn’t think the book would do them any good and approached a court in India against it. The court sent a notice to HarperCollins, which admitted before it that the firm had no intention of publishing the book in India. Contrary to popular perception, there was (and is) no ban on the book.

Internationally too, rights to the book—a less than modest success—reverted to McDonald. In the mid-2000s, the book’s fortunes saw a revival of sorts in India with pirated copies of it becoming available at traffic lights and on pavements in New Delhi and Mumbai for anything between `50 and `500. More

For Indian-American politicians, the “What are you?” test

From Salon:

She Anglicized her name, became a Christian, and was heralded as a Mama Grizzly by Sarah Palin — and now Nikki Haley is the overwhelming favorite to be the next Republican governor of South Carolina.

“You learn to try and show people how you’re more alike than you are different,” Haley, who was born Nimrata Randhawa into an Indian Sikh family, admitted to the New York Times earlier this year.

Bobby Jindal, raised in an Indian Hindu family in Baton Rouge, changed his name and converted to Catholicism. Now, Louisiana’s Republican governor is regarded as a potential candidate for his party’s presidential nomination.

When asked by “60 Minutes” last year if they follow any Indian traditions, Jindal and his wife insisted that “we were raised as Americans, we were raised as Louisianans, so that’s how we live our lives.”

There’s no doubt that the religious conversions of Haley and Jindal, the two most prominent Indian-American politicians, have powerful personal and spiritual roots. But it’s also inarguable that being Christians with Anglicized names has made it easier for them to create bonds with the overwhelmingly white and deeply religious voters who dominate Republican politics in the South. More:

Little Britain in Urdu

Seventy per cent of Pakistani immigrants living in Britain come from one city, Mirpur. Adnan Khan pays a visit and uncovers the cultural strains that exist between those who left and those who remain, tensions that have evolved over the decades into a love-hate relationship with the UK. From The National:

The Overload Club at the Regency Hotel has the kind of mood lighting you would expect in a high-end establishment – subtle, almost aromatic, filling spaces with a flair for the dramatic. It’s obvious whoever designed it thought things through deeply. The club’s decor is well thought out, with a snaking bar at one end and a giant screen television at the other. Filling the space in-between are cosy booths with red leather seats occupied by the kind of clientele you would expect to see in a posh European bar – clean-cut, gel-sculpted young people sporting all the usual brand names.

The smoke from their shishas fills the club in thick, surging curls, lending the place an almost subversive air. The young men crowd around the tables in secretive huddles, talking about girls and mobile phones and the next time someone’s parents will be out of town so they can throw a house party. One of them, sporting a tan beret tilted to one side, is glued to his mobile phone, his thumbs darting over the keys in a mechanical blur.

You could rip the scene out of its surroundings and transplant it to one of a thousand different European cities and it would blend in beautifully. But the odd thing is, this is about as far from Europe as you can get. Outside the Regency Hotel, the dusty streets buzz with brightly coloured lorries and buses, their drivers honking horns randomly in the searing summer heat. A donkey cart rolls past the neat row of Toyota Corollas in the hotel’s car park and, in the distance, the sound of the muezzin floats in over the frenetic rumblings of what is, in the end, a typical Pakistani city. More:

Eating the world’s hottest chilli

The Bhut Jolokia, also known as Naga Jolokia, is a chili pepper generally recognized as the hottest in the world. It grows in the India’s northeastern states of Assam, Nagaland and Manipur. (via 3quarksdaily.com)

Previously in Asian Window:

Tropical abstractions

In Harvard Magazine, a profile of Kerala-born, U.S.-based architect and painter George Oommen.

He creates his abstract landscapes mostly in acrylic and oil paints and, since 1994, has often used a drip technique in which he squirts water (or turpentine, for oil-based paint) at the top edge of the canvas and lets it trickle down, taking paint with it and creating a vertical line on the surface. “I use water to paint water,” he explains. Generally, he fills the frame with many parallel drips that, depending on the subject, can suggest raindrops on a window, wooden blinds, hanging vegetation, tree trunks, or the fabric of silk saris. More:

www.goommen.com

The video below takes you inside his studio:

Indian golfer Arjun Atwal wins US PGA tour title

Arjun Atwal. (Image: pgatour.com)

From The Telegraph:

Fifteen years after turning pro, the Asansol-born Arjun Atwal has become the first golfer from India to win a US PGA Tour event. He entered the record books in Greensboro yesterday by topping in the Wyndham Championship.

The 37-year-old Atwal, who has close ties with Calcutta and the Royal Calcutta Golf Club (RCGC), spoke to The Telegraph from his Orlando residence this morning — it was then well past 1am in Florida and he’d just arrived from North Carolina.

Excerpts:

Q: What were your first thoughts after the biggest win for an Indian?

A: (Laughs) Not much, actually… It didn’t sink in immediately.

Q: But you must have been aware that you’d created history, scripted a defining moment in India’s golf…

A: It’s for you, in the media, to dwell on the history bit… I wasn’t thinking of it. Rather, I was focused on what I needed to do… Where I’m concerned, I see this win as the fulfilment of something I’d set out to achieve many years ago… It’s personal gratification… I’d been working hard, but not getting the results… Today, it feels good.

Q: So, what made the difference in Greensboro?

A: I was able to put together four rounds of good golf, I was consistent. I’d been playing well in recent months, but never for four rounds in one tournament. Things changed in the Wyndham Championship. More:

China and India: Contest of the century

From The Economist:

A hundred years ago it was perhaps already possible to discern the rising powers whose interaction and competition would shape the 20th century. The sun that shone on the British empire had passed midday. Vigorous new forces were flexing their muscles on the global stage, notably America, Japan and Germany. Their emergence brought undreamed-of prosperity; but also carnage on a scale hitherto unimaginable.

Now digest the main historical event of this week: China has officially become the world’s second-biggest economy, overtaking Japan. In the West this has prompted concerns about China overtaking the United States sooner than previously thought. But stand back a little farther, apply a more Asian perspective, and China’s longer-term contest is with that other recovering economic behemoth: India. These two Asian giants, which until 1800 used to make up half the world economy, are not, like Japan and Germany, mere nation states. In terms of size and population, each is a continent—and for all the glittering growth rates, a poor one. More:

Everything you always wanted to know about Afghanistan .  .  .

P. J. O’Rourke reports from Kabul. In the Weekly Standard:

If you spend 72 hours in a place you’ve never been, talking to people whose language you don’t speak about social, political, and economic complexities you don’t understand, and you come back as the world’s biggest know-it-all, you’re a reporter. Either that or you’re President Obama. I called my wife. She said, no, she certainly is not vacationing at government expense in some jet-set hot spot with scads of her BFFs. Looks like I’m not President Obama. But I am a reporter, fresh from Kabul. What do you want to know about Afghanistan, past, present, or future? Ask me anything.

As all good reporters do, I prepared for my assignment with extensive research. I went to an Afghan restaurant in Prague. Getting a foretaste—as it were—of my subject, I asked the restaurant’s owner (an actual Afghan), “So what’s up with Afghanistan?”

He said, “Americans must understand that Afghanistan is a country of honor. The honor of an Afghan is in his gun, his land, and his women. You take a man’s honor if you take his gun, his land or his women.”

And the same goes for where I live in New Hampshire. I inquired whether exceptions could be made, on the third point of honor, for ex-wives.

“Oh yes,” he said.

Afghanistan—so foreign and yet so familiar and, like home, with such wonderful lamb chops. I asked the restaurateur about other similarities between New Hampshire and Afghanistan. “I don’t know,” he said. “Most of my family lives in L.A.” More:

A U.S. job fair for those who want to work in India

From Shine.com:

To help more home-bound NRIs realize their dream of a job in India, Shine.com is organizing a two-day Job Fair each at New Jersey and Santa Clara which will bring recruiters from India and potential NRIs across the table for hiring. Shine’s India Calling – US Job Fair 2010 will be a unique opportunity for experienced professionals working in the US will be able to choose from suitable assignments in India in the field of IT, R&D, Finance, Infrastructure, Retail and Business Development. For recruiters it will be a great opportunity to bring home high quality talent. More:

Feeding Ganesh in Kathmandu

On the menu: many sacrificed goats. Elizabeth Cinello in The Smart Set:

The teams emerge in single file from the traffic chaos on the torn up road between Bhaktapur and Kathmandu. It’s being rebuilt for Nepal’s Tourism Year in 2011. The teams’ destination is the main sanctuary on the leafy hilltop just outside Baktapur’s city limits where Ganesh’s shrine has stood for centuries. The goat is the star of the spectacle and therefore one is given the privileged position at the head of the procession, followed by a group of percussion musicians. Along the road flower vendors arrange colorful bouquets for devotees to buy as offerings for the god. Some of the goats wear a garland of marigolds. Stairs lead to the top of the hill where a sadhu sits motionless beside a basket into which visitors toss rice and coins. It’s a feast day and everyone’s happy and excited for the opportunity to connect with the jovial Ganesh.

At the shrine the village teams wait their turn to sacrifice. Their families and the goats mill around as the men organize themselves. A blood-drenched stone in front of the shrine serves as the altar. During the hour I’m there, eight goats and several chickens are offered to Ganesh. More arrive as I leave. It’s a constant turnover. While the chickens sense something’s up, the goats, even as they are led to the altar, seem oblivious to their imminent destiny. I watch them intensely. They chew on sweet leaves lovingly tucked into their mouths by a team member. I feel perturbed knowing they are going to die in a few minutes while they themselves have no clue. It’s better that they don’t know, I tell myself.

It’s only when they are grabbed by the legs and picked up that they protest with loud squeals. Two men tilt the goat upside down while the shrine attendant steps into place, straddling the animal now in position for a clean cut to the throat. The knife is short with a wide blade and a sharp tip. The squeals stop. Blood squirts into the crowd. A young man in jeans and a white T-shirt jumps back in an unsuccessful attempt to avoid a gushing stream of blood arching through the air. Oohs and aahs emanate from the female devotees as the bright red droplets seep into the denim. They know the blood will be impossible to wash out. Friends snap a picture of the young man smiling and shrugging his shoulders as if to say, “What can you do?”  A boy, all dressed up in a suit and firmly holding onto a rope, is dragged to and fro by a jaunty black goat. It is goat number six. More:

Math becomes fashionable

Seema Singh in Mint:

Stanley J. Osher, is not your stereotypical mathematician—serious-looking, immersed in abstraction. Having co-founded three companies in 22 years, based largely on his own research, Osher is a mathematician and an entrepreneur, who, in a plenary lecture on 25 August, is going to tell the 3,000-plus mathematicians gathered at the International Congress of Mathematicians (ICM) in Hyderabad how “fast” algorithms are going to rock the world.

Osher, whose firms Cognitech Inc., Luminescent Inc., and Level Set Systems Inc. are all solving real world problems, says it’s an “incredible time for mathematicians”. His and others’ work in “level set” theorems, which enable capturing moving images into math models, have led to applications that were unthinkable before.

“The whole industry of graphics in movies is using these algorithms,” says Osher, director of applied mathematics at the University of California in Los Angeles. Titanic was the last movie to use old-fashioned technology of simplified physical models. The special effects of the recent 3D movie Avatar owe their brilliance to level-set algorithms, he adds.

Osher’s message to mathematicians isn’t formulaic: fast algorithms can analyse data in a variety of sectors, from better medical imaging with reduced radiation dosage to spectral imaging in military applications. More:

Great Game replay

William Dalrymple in Afghanistan. From Outlook:

In 1843, shortly after his return from Afghanistan, an army chaplain named Rev G.H. Gleig wrote a memoir of the disastrous First Anglo-Afghan War of which he was one of the very few survivors. It was, he wrote, “a war begun for no wise purpose, carried on with a strange mixture of rashness and timidity, brought to a close after suffering and disaster, without much glory attached either to the government which directed, or the great body of troops which waged it. Not one benefit, political or military, was acquired with this war. Our eventual evacuation of the country resembled the retreat of an army defeated”.

It would be difficult to imagine any military adventure today going quite as badly as the First Anglo-Afghan War, an abortive experiment in Great Game colonialism that ended with an entire East India Company army utterly routed by poorly equipped tribesmen, at the cost of Rs 80 billion and over 40,000 lives. But this month, almost 10 years on from NATO’s invasion of Afghanistan, there were increasing signs that the current Afghan war, like so many before them, could still end in another embarrassing withdrawal after a humiliating defeat, with Afghanistan yet again left in tribal chaos, possibly partitioned and ruled by the same government which the war was originally fought to overthrow.

Certainly it is becoming clearer than ever that the once-hated Taliban, far from being defeated by the surge, are instead beginning to converge on, and effectively besiege, Kabul in what is beginning to look like the final act in the history of Karzai’s western-installed puppet government. For the Taliban have now reorganised, and advanced out of their borderland safe havens. They are now massing at the gates of Kabul, surrounding the capital, much as the US-backed mujahideen once did to the Soviet-installed regime in the late ’80s. The Taliban controls over 70 per cent of the country, where it collects taxes, enforces the sharia and dispenses its usual rough justice. Every month their sphere of influence increases. According to a recent Pentagon report, Karzai’s government only controls 29 out of 121 key strategic districts. More:

http://www.williamdalrymple.uk.com/

Children by their side, Shashi Tharoor and Sunanda Pushkar tie knot

In The Indian Express:

Elavanchery (Kerala): Former Union minister Shashi Tharoor, 54, and his Kashmiri friend Sunanda Pushkar, 48, tied the knot on Sunday morning in the presence of their children and close relatives at his ancestral home here, 408 km from state capital Thiruvananthapuram.

The simple and elegant ceremony, attended by around 100 guests and lasting barely an hour, was rich in rituals of upper class Hindu Nairs, the Kerala community to which Tharoor belongs.

The wedding, held at the 200-year-old Mundarath Home where Tharoor’s grandmother Jayasinkini Amma lives now, was by and large a private function, except for the presence of Congress leader Mani Shankar Aiyar and former Indian diplomat T P Sreenivasan. No Congress leader from Palakkad district turned up. Jacob Joseph, the controversial OSD to Tharoor during his stint as the Minister of State for External Affairs, was also absent. More: