Ramachandra Guha in the Financial Times:
I first visited Lahore in 1995, illegally. I was attending a conference in Islamabad, and had a visa for that city alone. But I was determined to get to Lahore. I had grown up in a town in north India inundated with refugees from Pakistan’s Punjab. The fathers of my friends had all been educated in Lahore, and spoke in elegiac tones about its colleges, parks, theatres and shops. A book they passed lovingly from hand to hand was Pran Neville’s Lahore: A Sentimental Journey, an account of a sensuous and even sybaritic city, whose residents – at least in this telling – were preoccupied with the pleasures of clothes, food, music and sex.
Speaking of the 1930s, Neville wrote that “Lahore was famous for its sexologists, mostly [Hindu] vaids and [Muslim] hakims. They promised sexual prowess to all those who could afford their expensive formulations, which had ingredients like gold, silver, pearls and rare herbs.”
Neville’s memories were emblematic. Lahore is the Salonica of the east, a multicultural city in living memory that is now dominated by people of a single faith. Named after Luv, a son of the mythical God-King Ram, Lahore was governed by Hindus before coming under a succession of Muslim rulers.
![badshahi_masjid Badshahi Masjid, Lahore [Image: Islamic Architecture]](http://www.asianwindow.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/badshahi_masjid.jpg)



