Tag Archive for 'Food'

Obituary: Norman Borlaug, who led Green Revolution

Largely because of his work, countries that had been food deficient, like Mexico and India, became self-sufficient in producing cereal grains. From the New York Times:

“More than any other single person of this age, he has helped provide bread for a hungry world,” the Nobel committee said in presenting him with the Peace Prize. “We have made this choice in the hope that providing bread will also give the world peace.”

The day the award was announced, Dr. Borlaug, vigorous and slender at 56, was working in a wheat field outside Mexico City when his wife, Margaret, drove up to tell him the news. “Someone’s pulling your leg,” he replied, according to one of his biographers, Leon Hesser. Assured that it was true, he kept on working, saying he would celebrate later.

The Green Revolution eventually came under attack from environmental and social critics who said it had created more difficulties than it had solved. Dr. Borlaug responded that the real problem was not his agricultural techniques, but the runaway population growth that had made them necessary.

“If the world population continues to increase at the same rate, we will destroy the species,” he declared.

Traveling to Norway, the land of his ancestors, to receive the award, he warned the Nobel audience that the struggle against hunger had not been won. “We may be at high tide now, but ebb tide could soon set in if we become complacent and relax our efforts,” he said. Twice more in his lifetime, in the 1970s and again in 2008, those words would prove prescient as food shortages and high prices caused global unrest. More:

The first family of tandoors

Samanth Subramanian in Mint:

clay-tandoorIn the Lal family, it is a well-known fact that one of its members invented the commercial tandoor, paving the way for naans and tandoori chicken to make it on to takeout menus across the world. Establishing exactly who that member is, however, depends very much on who is telling the story.

In Naresh Lal’s version, it was his grandmother. “She was from Punjab, and she was used to domestic ovens made of mud,” Lal, the 45-year-old owner of a tandoor-manufacturing firm named Parshadi Lal and Sons Pvt. Ltd, says. “She started making her own tandoors by hand, and in the late 1970s, when a lot of hotels were coming up in Delhi in anticipation of the 1982 Asian Games, they began looking for tandoors for tandoori restaurants. So my grandfather took it up as a business, and here we are.”

Naresh Lal’s father’s cousin, Munnilal, narrates an alternative history. “Just after Partition, a number of Pakistani refugees came into Delhi, and they came to my grandfather, asking him to make a clay pot-like oven,” Munnilal says. “He made the first one for a hotel near Sadar Bazaar. My grandfather was of the kumhar caste-he worked with clay, making toys and little pots, and so on-and when the demand for the tandoor rose, he moved into that line.” More:

On the British balti trail

Rory MacLean reviews Ziauddin Sardar’s entertaining journey [Balti Britain : A Journey Through the British Asian Experience, by Ziauddin Sardar, published by Granta]to unravel the diverse threads of the British Asian experience. From The Guardian:

Not for the first time Ziauddin Sardar opens a door to places many of us would not otherwise see. He begins at a familiar crossroad. Around Birmingham’s balti triangle huddle the largest concentration of balti restaurants in the UK. Tourists flock here for the “hottest weekend breaks in Britain”. Balti ready-meals fill our supermarket shelves.

According to some dictionaries, the dish is named after the Balti tribes of Baltistan. But in truth the balti is a modern British invention. The first balti was conjured up not in the Swat Valley but rather in a Sparkbrook kitchen as a reaction to the ubiquitous curry – that earlier Anglo-Indian creation which
many Brits thought was the only food eaten in the subcontinent. No Pakistani in his right mind would ever cook in a balti (the word means bucket in Urdu). As one restaurant owner tells Sardar, “It’s a joke. It all started as a joke. It was an invention for the goras (white folks).”

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Previously in AWChronicle of the British Asian experience

Between the dhaba and the diner

In Himal South Asia, Vijay Prashad reviews “American Masala: 125 new classics from my home kitchen” by Suvir Saran with Raquel Pelzel (Clarkson Potter, 2007):

Tandoori turkey on Thanksgiving, for example, is the staple response to the cultural undertow of Americanism. A South Indian friend tells me that when he was young in upstate New York, his mother would grudgingly take them to McDonald’s, where she would order a hamburger without the meat. This was gentle accommodation to the desires produced in our children by their peers and the media. Saran also treats us to some suggestions on how to spice up quintessentially American dishes. Here we get macaroni and cheese with a twist with pepper; or, even better, fried chicken with masala and a buttermilk marinade. For his meatloaf, Saran turns to a recipe from his Armenian-American friend Richard Arakelian, whose use of peppers, cumin, coriander, peppercorns, garam masala and tamarind (as a glaze) give the dish an undeniable desi robustness. Saran recommends that you serve this dish to your family with his roasted baby potatoes with South Indian spices, doused with garlic; an equally good side dish is his tangy sweet-potato chaat.

Fusion is a misnomer in Saran’s universe. Such a term assumes a stable Indian and American cuisine that is melded together, often thoughtlessly. Saran is voracious, liberally borrowing recipes from his mother’s Nagpur donuts and his polycultural friends. There is no anxiety about ‘authenticity’, nothing to hold him back from even offering his version of rum raisin ice cream, which evokes for me Delhi’s Nirula’s, although Saran uses real rum.

[via Amitava Kumar]

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India sends seeds to ‘Noah’s Food Ark’ deep in the Arctic

Sonu Jain in The Indian Express:

Halfway between the northern coast of Norway and the North Pole in an archipelago called Svalbard, three enormous caverns have been blasted 130 m into the permafrost. Called the doomsday vault, it will be a Noah’s Ark of food in the event of a global catastrophe. Among the world’s 45,000 most important seeds stored in this Svalbard Global Seed Vault, there will be quite a bit of India too.

Seeds of sorghum, pearl millet, chickpea, pigeonpea, groundnut and six small millets will be transferred by the International Crops Research Institute for the Semi-Arid Tropics (ICRISAT) from its headquarters in Patencheru, near Hyderabad to this location, 1000 km from the Arctic.

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The Svalbard Global Seed Vault opens Tuesday 26 February. Watch the opening ceremony:

A moveable feast

In The Sunday Express, Amulya Gopalakrishnan reviews Chitrita Banerji’s Eating India: Exploring a Nation’s Cuisine:

For proust, it was the taste of a madeleine that triggered the rich remembrance of things past. For Chitrita Banerji, marooned in snowy Boston, it is a wedding feast on a banana leaf that brings on a nostalgia attack, as she impulsively sets off to India to explore her culinary patrimony and write Eating India.

On her way back, she bristles at the British Airways’ offering of chicken tikka masala, blaming it for everything ersatz and corrupt about Indian food in the West. Even as she accepts the inevitability of mobile, shifting cultures, Banerji is preoccupied with the phantom of “authenticity” awaiting her in India.

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