From Outside Online:
Nothing lets you know it’s raining bulls and buffaloes like a sheet-metal roof outside your hotel-room window. Indians say the monsoon is the best weather for sleeping, but on my second night in the mountain town of Munnar, in the southern state of Kerala, I’m up and down constantly. Mostly this is from excitement-the monsoon, finally!-but Indian mattresses are also a factor. Spend a few weeks flopping around on one and you’ll understand why they had to invent yoga here.
“It is raining bulls and buffaloes!” my driver, nature guide, and new best friend, Baiju, says when he greets me in the morning. “Now you are happy.”
At the nadir of my monthlong monsoon quest, under Indian skies as sunny as the Disney Channel, I came across Baiju in the Kerala seaside town of Cochin. For the first day or two he was a rock of courtesy and professionalism, all “Yes, sir” and “Let me carry that, sir” and “Don’t purchase tea in that shop, sir-it is known to be operated by a criminal element.” Now that he’s gotten comfortable around me, his more local tendencies have begun to flower. More:




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