In The Sunday Express, Amulya Gopalakrishnan reviews Chitrita Banerji’s Eating India: Exploring a Nation’s Cuisine:
For proust, it was the taste of a madeleine that triggered the rich remembrance of things past. For Chitrita Banerji, marooned in snowy Boston, it is a wedding feast on a banana leaf that brings on a nostalgia attack, as she impulsively sets off to India to explore her culinary patrimony and write Eating India.
On her way back, she bristles at the British Airways’ offering of chicken tikka masala, blaming it for everything ersatz and corrupt about Indian food in the West. Even as she accepts the inevitability of mobile, shifting cultures, Banerji is preoccupied with the phantom of “authenticity” awaiting her in India.
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